Our guide to Endstops
2nd September, 2013
Mechanical Endstops These are switches, cheap and fairly reliable - though eventually they must wear out. Their major problem is that the contacts don't always engage at exactly the same position. We've tested our current switches and they are within 0.2mm, but this can be enough to cause your print not to stick when used on the Z-Axis.
Opto Endstops These work by shining a light through a slit onto a photoresistor (like a solar cell-no light=high resistance). They are triggered by anything opaque passing between the two, usually a thin piece of aluminium which is easily bent to provide adjustment. Thus they are more accurate once set-up, but can be confused by strong light or sunlight shining on them.
Hall Effect These work on the hall effect, which varies it's output voltage in a changing magnetic field . This means they have no moving parts and everything is sealed so they are uneffected by light, moisture or dust. They are also the most accurate and some have an electrical adjustment so you can easily adjust the point at which they are triggered.
Click a product image for full details
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Mechanical |
Optical |
Hall Effect |
4 Pin Used by Makerbot:
Replicator 1, Replicator 2 and Rep 2x
MBot: Cube 1, Cube 2 Can be used with 3 pin switches as the middle 2 pins are both ground |
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3 Pin Used by RUMBA and PrintrBot PrintrBoard
(These boards will work with 2 pins of our mechanical switches) also Sanguinololu and RAMBo (has locking connector) |
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2 Pin Used by RAMPS 1.4 |
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N/A |
N/A |
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